Drei Nächte bei den Dreizinnen

Paternkofel (Monte Paterno) und Dreizinnen
(Tre Cime di Lavaredo)

We started the hike with a cup of coffee at Moos-Moso.

The plan was to go to Chamonix and maybe to Geneva during an extended weekend in Germany. But the weather God didn't listen to our wish, or he/she didn't want us to fulfill our wishes. There were so many thunderstorms and rain forecasts that we didn't even think about it anymore. However, we wanted to do something this weekend. Sonia was looking for options and came up with the idea of Sextner Dolomites in Italy. Moreover, she had booked beds in the hut Rifugio Auronzo, which is just behind the Dreizinnen. Coincidentally this was one of the planned routes of mine. So, of course, I accepted it happily. As we had decided at the last moment, we almost didn't get anything booked apart from the hut Auronzo.

On the trail 102 from Moos Moso to Dreizinnen

Day 0: I finished work on Wednesday early. Last night I had packed most of the staffs. I was so excited I might use the tent which I had bought a couple of years before, finally be utilized. So, I kept the tent set with me. And another thing was the camera and its accessories. These things were the most important. Then a few first aids-related things. The great thing is we didn't know where we sleep that night. We were trying to call many huts or camping places close to Moos-Moso, in the Dolomites as we will start our hike from there. One camping site told us the tents are all booked, but we can stay at their parking. I was not 100% sure what did she mean. Although she did tell me, we can camp there with our tent. So I was excited. When we reached there, it was already midnight. Nobody was around. And we had to spend the night in the car without the camp. So, it's like my Checklist 1. Sleeping in the car. Checked :P

Day 1: In the morning, we woke up in the car. Well, for me, it was like still sleeping. We parked the car and needed to find a cafe to wake me up with coffee... Italian coffee did make me feel fresh and satisfied. We had started our hike with the coffee.

At trail 102, when we reached almost halfway till Dreizinnen,
the place was so much panoramic that we need to take a
photo break.  

Die Dreizinnen, the triple-peaked mountain in the Sextner Dolomites, is one of the UNESCO Natural Heritages in Northern Italy. Finally, I had been lucky enough to be there. Oh yes, the very first thing I must mention that it has become an excellent tourist attraction because of the easy accessibility of the peak; one can drive till the hut (Rifugio Auronzo) of almost 2500 meter height. And to ease the tourists, there are bus services! The Tre Cime di Lavaredo Italian for "Three Peaks of Lavaredo"), also called the Drei Zinnen (2,999 m) German for "Three Merlons"), are three distinctive battlement-like peaks, in the Sexten Dolomites of northeastern Italy. They are probably one of the best-known mountain groups in the Alps. The three peaks, from east to west, are:

Dreizinnen from the Bunker at the wee hours

Cima Piccola / Kleine Zinne ("little peak" elevation of 2,857 m).

Cima Grande / Große Zinne ("big peak"; elevation of 2,999 m)

Cima Ovest / Westliche Zinne ("western peak"; elevation 2,973 m).

The peaks are composed of well-layered dolomites of the Dolomia Principale (Hauptdolomiten) formation, like many others in the Dolomites (e.g., the Tofane, the Pelmo or the Cinque Torri).

Until 1919 the peaks formed part of the border between Italy and Austria. Now they lie on the border between the Italian provinces of South Tyrol and Belluno. It feels like Dreizinnen separates German-speaking from Italian-speaking majorities.

Dreizinnen reflected on the lake of Lavaredo

I was lucky enough to sleep in the very hut, Rifugio Auronzo. As the weather condition deteriorates, I was unable to sleep due to the anxiety of the route planned for the next day. The area is new, and there is still a lot of snow on the area, altogether it had made me reconsidered my previously planned route twice or thrice. I crosschecked to make sure I'm not taking any klettersteig or very steep paths. Asking the hut people only to make sure that I must take easier trails than thought before.

Die Drei Zinnen 😊 at wee hours reflected on the Lago di Lavaredo.

Sonia roaming around the hut Rifugio Fonda Savio

My obsession with the Tre Cime continues. While waiting for the Sun to come out from the backward, I was so mesmerized with the views and so much into capturing this UNESCO NATURAL HERITAGE, with the moon above it, I almost forgot to realize when the Sun already came up; nevertheless, I could manage to get some shots of Dreizinnen on the first light of the day. These shots are from the Bunker, which was used to be utilized in the time of the World War-I.

Let's get down from Tre Cime for some time and get going. When you take the easy way down from the Auronzo Hut beside the alpine roads, you will reach to this beautiful lake, Lago Antorno which is located in the valley.

A duelfie in front of the hut Rifugio Fonda Savio

I felt like the jungle was spreading a kind of white decoration to the blue sky and the lake was kind enough to share the ribbon on his calm page. It's like exactly the meaning of this in my mother tongue, Bengali, অন্তর লাগাও বা লাগাইয়া, with a full heart ❤️! It was the second day of our trip on our way to the hut Rifugio Fonda Savio, the name looks like Italian, but all the people we met there including the owners were German.

I have no idea what's going on!

Day 2: of our long weekend Dolomites trip was not that bad even though the weather was terrible.

So, I woke up or just stood up from the bed at 2:30 am get ready and walked out to see the stars. Being not very lucky with that I had decided to reach the bunkers (which is around 5 km from the hut) to capture the Tre Cime or Drei Zinnen at the first daylight. I was kind of successful.

What is more mesmerizing is that there was no one in that otherwise overcrowded trail! The whole mountains were mine! The entire landscape was greeting me, and I was walking 🏃. I realized that I was not carrying water, but who cares! I think all nature-loving people won't care!

Another thing is the mountains were attracting me so much I was almost climbing up to the peak of the Bunker, which is not at all a good thing. After some time, I thought there was no one with me. I should not take any risk, and I stopped. Honestly, it was not easy.

Photographers life- can't sleep in a new place of excitement to capture a beautiful moment to cherish it later for a few days, for a few months, for a few years or throughout the lifetime.

Reflection of the landscape on the lake Lago di Antoro

After experiencing the mesmerizing views of Tre Cime from the Bunker in the dawn, I was walking back to Rifugio Auronzo and then close to the cabin Rifugio Lavaredo, could not control me to take a view of the Tre Cime from the lake Lavaredo. And I found this!

A happy photographer 😍

I was wondering how can people even think about war if they see this in front of their eyes.

When I was waiting there, there were some scary noises; I was all alone in that place which is full of the crowd at other times, then I got rid of my fear to see where those noises were coming from, and I found that the water droplets were formed of the damped roof and were dropped on the floor. The place was so calm that those small things were making these scary noises!

Happy me on the trail to Zsigmondy hut

This was the most less active or a bit boring day of our trip as there was huge Thunderstorm forecast and there was almost nothing can be done in the hut if you can't go climbing around, but the view was soothing enough.

Another thing in this post I would like to highlight is to meet my dear friend Sonia with whom I did many memorable adventures I would never forget; starting from Sudden one day climbing to Zugspitze to the deadly Watzmann. She is kind enough to drive me happily to these adventures.

We reached to the hut Rifugio Fonda Savio early, but we could not do many activities due to bad weather and as I had mentioned this hut is situated in between very steep mountains so either you climb or do nothing ⛰️ we don't jump, well in a lousy weather nobody climbs as well. So we were photo-shooting each other and meeting different people who were coming in this hut.

Lago di Cengia and the reflection of Monte Cengia

Day 3: of Dolomites trip: That day had started with a bit of fear and anxiety. From Rifugio Fondo Savio to Rifugio Zsigmondy we had to take a bit long way because shorter way still had snow and not easy for doing Klettersteig. Considering the weather condition which was predicted to become a rainy day y, gloomy and a lot of thunderstorms, we decided to take the long but accessible way. I was so stressed because I had to walk whole day wet and might catch a cold which is not great as I must run the half marathon on the next weekend so didn't want to be unfit at any means.

The view of Lago di Cengia from Monte Cengia 

But following the trail 102 looking at the beauty of this land, I got back my mood. Then we reach to this beautiful small but impressive lake in the mountains. We were lucky enough to reach there just in time. We could see the excellent reflection of the mountain Monte Cengia on this beautiful lake Lago di Cengia. After 5 min, all became dark, and the mystic clouds came from somewhere and provided a mysterious landscape. I won't say that I didn't like this, but there was a tense feeling since we still needed to walk a lot to reach our destination.

When Sonia found that French couple she forgot to walk
with me

At one point Sonia told me that she does not have a rain cover for her backpack and I was thinking about what to do. I told her that we would see in the next hut Rifugio Auronzo whether they have something.. I was quite sure that they won't have a rain cover for her backpack so, I had started thinking about what could be other options. When we reached the to the hut, we asked, and as usual, there was no rain cover for her backpack. Something caught my eyes; the hut personnel was changing their dustbins with bug plastic bags! I requested that guy to provide us with one of the plastic bags. He was kind enough to give us one but told us not to show it to the other hut personnel. We understood. We made the backpack cover with that. You can see it in the last photo of this post.

Interesting fact: Instagram does not have this location in its profile 😂

On the way from Zsigmondy Hut 

After passing by the lake Lago di Cengia, we crossed a confusing trail and then reached to a ridge-like path which was like walking on the China Wall. Well, it was very steep, but we could not see much of the bottom due to the clouds. Finally, we reached the hut called Rifugio Pian di Cengia, one of my very favorite cabin; we requested to this hut so many times but didn't get any definite answer for spending the night there. Now I understand why it was so crazy because the cabin is tiny. But it was a very fantastic hut with a superb panoramic view.

Day 4: of the Dolomites trip: Day four offered us the best weather, and it was a bit sad that we were leaving this place. I woke up early enough but can't see the spectacular sunrise because the hut is surrounded by the high mountains. I waked up a bit and captured some photos I saw there were cows in a loosely fenced area behind the cabin Zsigmondy. After roaming around and appreciating the beauty of Dolomites, I came back to the hut and got ready to leave. We had breakfast and left the cabin. Today's trail was going down and crossing a small mountain called Sextner Rotwand (there is a mountain with the same name in Bavarian Prealps). It also has a seilbahn. While we are going down, we felt we were above the cloud. It had also created a mystic landscape! When we were already down to the valley from Zsigmondy hut I was feeling so bad to leave this place. It was like I am leaving my home. I do not know whenever I am in the Dolomites. I feel like I am at home! We had started climbing from the hut Rifugio Fondo Valley we left route 102 which is a really excellent trail, but we had followed that trail while climbing up and didn't want to repeat it. Instead, we turned right and to climb up Rotwand. This mountain is of 2,965 m height. I was doing micro photography this day :P capturing the flora and faunas of Dolomites, mainly vegetation though. On the way, there was the Alpine Museum of World War-I called Anderte Alpe Freilichtmuseum; an open museum of World War-I. We reached the hut Rudihutte and had a small pause of a break. I also had brunch with my newly discovered favorite Italian Cuisine, Spaghetti Aglio Olio. When we got down to Moos we still had enough time to do more sightseeing, so we drove to Lago di Braies or commonly known as Pragser Wildsee.

Trails we had taken and some planned not performed Kletterteig.
A-Rifugio Auronzo, B-Rifugio Fonda Savio, C-Rifugio Zsigmondy.

Planned Trail and Actual Trail Taken: We followed the famous trail 102 from Moos-Moso till the hut Rifugio Auronzo. This trail is absolutely beautiful. One will pass amazing landscapes, a waterfall, and panoramic views. After reaching to Auronzo one can also go around Tre Cime. Our next plan was to do the Klettersteig Sentiero Bonacossa which is a B level Klettersteig but we were unable to do it because there was a lot of snow. So we took the easy trail down beside the bus road till Lago di Antorno and then climbed up to Rifugio Fonda Savio. Our next Klettersteig plan was from Zsigmondy hut to Rudihutte its called Alpine Steig. This is a serious Klettersteig and we didn't even think about it as there was a lot of snow and it was not officially opened. https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/holiday-region-three-peaks-in-the-dolomites/long-weekend-with-sonia/121424279/?share=%7Ezjavzvvt%244ossdfav

How to go to Rifugio Auronzo?

The closest town to Rifugio Auronzo and the start of the hike is Misurina. The final road to the main parking lot can remain close in the winter months when it becomes covered with snow.

Driving Distances from i) Cortina d’Ampezzo: 23 km, ~40 minutes, ii) Selva di Cadore:  53 km, ~1.5 hours, iii) Bolzano:  152 km, 2.5 hours

Floras of Dolomites

There is also public transport, i.e., Bus services from Misurina Albergo Misurina to Rifugio Auronzo (https://moovitapp.com/trento_e_belluno-1903/lines/031/345353/1093623/en?customerId=4908&ref=1&poiType=efsite).

Unfortunately, there are very few and too long public transportation option from Munich to Misurina.

Since we had a car we started our hike from Moos Moso, it's a small town just close to Sesto-Sexten.

Faunas of Dolomites

Floras of Dolomites

Floras and Faunas of Dolomites: On the trails, besides the mountains, there are thousand different types of small animals, insects, and many more plants won't be escaped from the eyes. I could capture only a few. Some flowers look very unrealistic, as well. Some animals like those cows, those mermaids, even those snails, and butterflies look like they were posing for me to get captured.

Food and drinks in the Dolomites: Being a Bengali, I am automatically foodie :P. Wherever I go, I must try local foods. The Dolomites is in Italy, and we know Italian cuisine rules the World. So, I must try local, authentic Italian food. It's not like this was my first time to Italy, but this is like my first proper travelogue, so I must say things correctly. First, I accept that I am not a very big fan of Italian food. But sh sh sh. Don't tell my Italian friends they will kill me :P. Although, I know all the big and famous Pizzeria in Munich, hehe thanks to my Italian and international friends. It reminded me that a friend of mine was surprised that I did not like Pizza and astonished who on earth does not like Pizza! Staying in the hut is much cheaper, the only thing is food which is also not very expensive but reasonable.

Apart from whatever you eat to pay for it separately (À la Carte), there is another terminology which I should highlight. That is Die Halbpension (Half Board in English)- which means food is included in the accommodation and provides breakfast and either lunch or dinner, more commonly dinner.

I admit I really cherish the authentic, simple Spaghetti Aglio Olio this time. Of course, the coffee, latte macchiato, and dessert Tiramisu at different huts, especially Spaghetti at Aunrzo and Tiramisu at the cabin Zsigmondy. At the house of Fonda Savio, the coffee was not great, and I enjoyed only beer a lot. Well, a beer never fails you!